How much of an experience do we need to satisfy our appetites for an experience capital E? In the old days we felt special sat high up at the chef’s table, white linen stretched out, starched, before us. We played with the extra spoons between courses watching the show, the sous; the way the guy over there got the sauce squiggle the same 99% of the time. The cooks seemed a bit on edge, sure, but then you know for yourself how it can feel cooking with someone over your shoulder. And anyway, this was a special occasion; they could deal with it this once.